Bear Creek, the Svea 123R stove, and the Edelweiss Cookset

I wanted to get out yesterday, but I didn't have the time to do something long, and I've been having foot problems.  So, to Bear Creek I decided.

Alder lined Bear Creek in the pre-dawn light

Now, not only did I want to get out for some exercise and to get away from "civilization" but I also wanted to try out my "new" (to me) Edelweiss cookset that was given to me by "hikermor" from California.

The Edelweiss Cookset

But first, let's get to Bear Creek.  From Azusa, take Highway 39 north to the confluence of the West and North Forks of the San Gabriel River.  There are two parking lots and a picnic area here as well as a pit toilet.  No potable water is available, but of course the river is very close by if you have the means to treat the water.  Park at one of the two lots or along the side of the highway if the lots are full.  Don't forget to post your parking permit ("Adventure" pass).

From the parking area, proceed on foot up the paved road that goes west along the south bank of the West Fork of the San Gabriel River.  Go west for about one mile.  After about a mile, you should see this sign with an arrow on top pointing north across the river.

Sign pointing to Bear Creek

Detail of arrow on sign pointing across the river to Bear Creek

If the water is really low, you can just wade or rock hop across the water directly to Bear Creek, but there is an easier way.  Proceed another 100m or so west and cross a bridge.  After crossing the bridge, turn left, descend to the river bank, and go underneath the bridge.  Follow the river 50m or so downstream to the confluence of Bear Creek.

West Fork of the San Gabriel River just below the bridge

In the above photo, Bear Creek is flowing into the West Fork just behind the trees on the left side of the frame. OK, so let's start heading up Bear Creek.

Heading up Bear Creek

The trail is in pretty decent shape and is reasonably followable.  Someone has painted green arrows in a few spots which, while ugly, do correctly point the way in those sections where the trail is a little hard to spot.  As with most streamside trails, expect a lot of water crossings.

First Crossing, Bear Creek Trail

En route, we encountered some really big Canyon Live Oak (Quercus Chrysolepsis) acorns.  Look at the size of this acorn cap compared to my hand.

The cap of a Canyon Live Oak acorn

One more stream crossing, and my friend Will and I arrive at Lower Bear Trail Camp

Final Creek Crossing en route to Lower Bear Trail Camp

After crossing the creek, we climb the opposite bank to the little stream side "bench" that hosts Lower Bear Trail Camp.

Lower Bear Trail Camp just before sunrise

A campsite at Lower Bear Trail Camp

Apparently someone staying here had a lot of time on their hands!

Rock carving at Lower Bear Trail Camp

Also interesting was this "fire can" made from a 55 gallon (208 liter) steel drum.  The drum had air vents cut into it with a cutting torch, and carrying handles have been attached to either side.  I just can't imagine who would drag such a thing out into the woods through all those stream crossings!  Unfortunately, the can is being used as a trash container, and there is no trash collection service here.

Fire Can at Lower Bear Trail Camp

Well!  There's our journey, and there's our camp.  Now, let's have a look at that cookset.  The best information that I have is that this cookset came out in the 1950's and was produced through the 1960's.  This particular set belonged to a former Search and Rescue team member.  No telling where it has been, but it sure looks like it's been to a lot of places!

Edelweiss Cookset

Detail of engraving on cookset lid

The cookset's lid has graduated "steps" so as to fit the two different pot sizes that come with the set.  Unfortunately, one of the pots had reached "end of life" before the set came to me.  I believe I now have only the smaller of the two pots that originally came with the set.

The lid of the Edelweiss cookset

Turned upside down, the cookset's lid can be used as a pan.

The inside of the cookset's lid

So, now that the lid's off, let's see what's in the set.  Inside is the stove, cookset base, and windscreen.  I've also added some stuffing to keep things from rattling.  You can't see it because it's wrapped, but there's a set of pot grippers in there.  There's also room for a bottle of priming alcohol, a lighter, and a spoon.

The interior of the cookset

The cookset is meant to be used with the short version of the Primus 71 stove.  Unfortunately, I don't own such a stove.  Here I've substituted a Svea 123R which is roughly the same height.

A Svea 123R stove

 Note that a Svea 123R says only Svea 123 on the tank.  There is no "R".

Detail of the engraving on the tank of a Svea 123R

So, what's the difference between the original Svea 123 produced by Sievert starting in 1955 and the version produced from the 1970's onward after Optimus bought the rights to the Svea name in 1969?  The main difference is that the Svea 123R has a cleaning needle built into the burner. When the valve is opened all the way, the needle moves up into the stove's jet cleaning out any soot or other blockages.  The original Svea 123's had no built in needle.  Instead a separate "pricker" was sold with the stove.  One unscrewed the burner bell and inserted the thin wire of the pricker into the orifice of the jet in order to remove blockages.  While a built in needle is easier to use when the stove is hot and is not as easy to lose as a separate needle, the addition of the needle added more moving parts and limited the range of the valve.  While many people do like the "improved" version of the stove, there are also many who insist the original version of the stove is the better version.  I myself generally prefer the original version so long as good quality fuel is available.  If the fuel were of questionable quality, the Svea 123R is probably the better version.

Well, if the engraving on the tank for both models is the same, how does one tell the two apart?  There are several ways by which one can quickly distinguish the two versions.  First, the valve on a Svea 123R protrudes from the burner column at a right angle.  The valve on an original Svea 123 slants downward.

The valve on a Svea 123R protrudes at a right angle.

Second, the valve on a Svea 123R is slightly offset to the right.  The original Svea 123's valve is centered.

The valve on a Svea 123R is slightly offset to the right

Third, the regulating key on a Svea 123R has a larger aperture is a close ended wrench.  The regulating key on an original Svea 123 has a smaller aperture and is an open ended wrench.

A typical Svea 123R regulating key is closed ended and has three fittings

There are other more subtle differences, but those three are probably the most visible and most readily identified.  So, next time you're on eBay, why don't you see if you can spot the differences?  After reading this post, you'll frequently know more than the seller!

One more thing about the stove before we get back to the cookset:  The tank cap.  If you see a tank cap with a long extension like the one in the below photo, it's a pump compatible tank cap.  Caps of this type are compatible with either an Optimus mini (straight) or midi (angled) pump.  The pump allows one to add pressure to the stove which can help in getting the stove started in cold weather.  The pump is optional; a Svea 123 or 123R will run just fine without a pump if you prime the stove well.

A pump cap for a Svea 123 or 123R

OK!  So, back to the Edelweiss cookset.  In the base of the cookset is a "half moon" clip spot welded in place. 

The clip that secures a short Primus 71 in the stove base of an Edelweiss cookset

  The tank of the short version of the Primus 71 slides under the lip of the "half moon" clip such that the stove is held in place.  As I mentioned, I don't have a short Primus 71, so I'm substituting a Svea 123R.  The Svea 123R's tank does NOT fit into the clip.  However, with a bit of creativity, a Svea 123R can be positioned such that the stove can be used with the cookset.

The cookset's base has ventilation holes on one side.

Ventilation holes in the Edelweiss cookset's base

On the other side is an access portal so that one can operate the regulating key.

Access port on the base of the Edelweiss cookset

Next comes the windscreen.

The windscreen of the Edelweiss cookset

The stove is placed in the base.

A Svea 123R stove in an Edelweiss cookset base

The windscreen is then emplaced on the base such that the burner of the stove protrudes through the hole in the center of the bottom of the windscreen.

A Svea 123R's burner protrudes through the hole in the center of the Edelweiss cookset's windscreen

An Edleweiss cookset base and windscreen with a Svea 123R stove in place.

Next, look at the pot.  Note in the photo below the lip around the edge of the bottom of the pot.  The lip fits into the windscreen making for an extremely stable set up. 

The small pot from an Edelweiss cookset

One can also use a good sized fry pan (i.e. not from the set) with the base and windscreen.

The aluminum of the Edelweiss cookset seems a bit soft to me.  I find that I can bend the pots etc. fairly easily.  Note all the dents from the pot gripper in the photo below.

Edelweiss cookset pot.  Note dents from pot gripper.

The whole set up looks like the photo below when everything is in place.  I suppose it looks better to have the lid upright but frankly it's more practical in terms of using the pot gripper to use the lid upside down. 

A fully assembled Edelweiss cookset with one pot in place.

If you look closely at the next photo, you can see the stove blazing away inside the cookset.

 

The Edelweiss cookset in use.  Note flames emanating from the stove.

Detail of flame

Not only is the Edelweiss cookset a very stable set up, it's quite effective as well.

Passing the "tea test" with the Edelweiss cookset.

I haven't done exhaustive side-by-side tests, but my gut feel is that I can heat water a lot faster using the Edelweiss cookset than I can with a Svea 123R in stand alone mode.  I believe the reasons for this ability to heat water more quickly are as follows:  Firstly, the cookset is configured such that the airflow is directed from bottom to top which increases efficiency.  Secondly, while the windscreen doesn't provide complete wind blocking protection (which would be unsafe with a stove whose burner mounts directly on the tank), the windscreen does provide some protection which increases efficiency.  Certainly the windscreen of the Edelweiss cookset provides more protection than the windscreen that comes with a Svea 123R.  Thirdly, the "floor" of the windscreen acts as a heat reflector which increases efficiency.  Lastly, the aluminum of the windscreen conducts heat directly to the pot.

Well, the sun is now fully up (compare the light in the below photo to the light in the first photo of  trail camp) and climbing higher. 

A sun lit Lower Bear Trail Camp

 It's time I bid farewell to Lower Bear trail camp and made my way down Bear Creek to the West Fork of the San Gabriel River.  Now that the day is in full stride, the fishermen are out in full force.

Fly fishing on the West Fork of the San Gabriel River

I'm now almost back to the road that runs along the south bank of the W. Fork of the San Gabriel River.

West Fork of the San Gabriel River with bridge near confluence with Bear Creek.

I'll spare you the boring walk along the road back to the parking lot.  I thank you for joining me on another Adventure in Stoving.

HJ

Optimus Nova on Gas

The Optimus Nova is a great stove -- if you get the right version (see my Optimus Nova Review for how to tell).

But the Nova is a liquid fuel only stove.  Wouldn't it be nice if it could run on gas?  Well, hold on here. I mean why not?  What's stopping us? 

But how to do it?  Well, let's take a look at an Optimus Nova

An Optimus Nova stove in its case

An Optimus Nova stove

Yep, that's the stove all right.  :)  No obvious clues there, so let's dig a little deeper.  Let's look at the fuel line.

An Optimus Nova with the fuel line showing

First let's look at the distal end of the fuel line.

The distal end of an Optimus Nova

On the distal end of the fuel line, we can see the excellent and proven CEJN connector.  The CEJN connector is perhaps the best connector on any stove in the world.  The connector plugs into the Nova's pump (liquid fuel only).  The connector will not mate with a canister of gas, and there's no adapter available.  So, no help on the distal end of the fuel line.


What about the proximal end?

The proximal end of a Nova's fuel line

Well, now isn't that interesting?  There's a nut there.  A nut as in the type that you can unscrew.  But what to attach it to?  Hmm.  Now, interestingly enough the fuel line on a Primus Omnifuel is already set up to run on gas, and the fuel line of a Primus Omnifuel also ends in a nut, a nut that is very similar to the Nova's

Optimus Nova stove (top).  Fuel line from a Primus Omnifuel (bottom).

Notice the similarity between the nut on the Nova's fuel line and the nut on the Omnifuel's fuel line?  Could it be?  Rats.  Nope.  Not the same.  But they're so close!


Hmm.  What if we could get a small adapter?  Enter our friends at Bluewater Stove Restoration.  Yes, Bluewater Stove Restoration is famous for making silent caps both for classic stoves like the Primus 96 and the Svea 123 as well as for modern stoves like the Dragonfly and the Omnifuel, but Bluewater does a whole lot more.  Indeed, they've come up with an adapter to connect an Optimus Nova to the fuel hose of a Primus Omnifuel so that a Nova can be run on gas. 

An adapter from Bluewater Stove Restoration.  This adapter will mate the fuel line from a Primus Omnifuel to an Optimus Nova stove.

A word on safety:  Any time you modify any stove, you take your life in your hands.  Be aware that you could have a fire, and that there are serious risks involved including severe burns and possibly even death.  If you "try this at home," be really careful.  In the case of using an adapter like the one shown in this post, take care not to cross thread, and make sure the fittings are tightened securely.  Always test with a low volume of fuel first before you open the valve fully.  In, the specific case of the Optimus Nova, close the valve at the burner, open the valve at the canister, and listen.  There should be no sound of escaping gas.  If you hear gas, something is wrong, and you need to STOP and correct the problem before you light the burner.  Fair warning.

OK, enough safety talk.  Let's give it a whirl!  First, let's take the Nova's fuel line off.

Disconnecting the fuel line from an Optimus Nova stove

And let's try out that adapter!

The Bluewater Stove Restoration adapter installed on an Optimus Nova stove

Fits great.  Now for the fuel line from the Omnifuel.

A fuel line from a Primus Omnifuel mated to an Optimus Nova stove via an adapter

The fuel line also fits great.  Now we're ready to start cooking with gas!

A fuel line from a Primus Omnifuel mated to an Optimus Nova stove via an adapter.

So, let's hook it up.

An Optimus Nova stove attached to a canister of gas

And let's fire it up!

An Optimus Nova stove running on canister gas.

It's a little hard to see the flames, but the adapter works great, and the Nova runs well on gas.  One could probably get slightly better heat output if one had a jet optimized for gas, but the factory installed Nova jet (optimized for liquid fuel) works just fine on canister gas.  I've noticed as I've tested various stoves that in general using a jet designed for a less volatile fuel (like white gasoline) will work reasonably well with a more volatile fuel (like gas).

I noticed that the stove went out a couple of times when I tried to get a really low simmering flame when just adjusting the at-the-canister valve.  It was broad daylight, and the flame was hard to see, so I don't think the stove going out was any reflection on the adapter or any indication that a Nova doesn't run well on gas.  However, I thought I'd try something different:  Running with the canister inverted.

An Optimus Nova stove running on gas with the canister inverted (liquid feed mode)

Running a stove with the canister inverted causes liquefied gas to flow out the bottom of the canister.  Liquefied gas is very similar to the Nova's intended (liquid) fuels.  When I ran the Nova on liquefied gas and used the at-the-burner valve to regulate the flame, I found that the stove was able to get a really nice "barely there" simmer.

An Optimus Nova stove with a  low simmering type flame running on gas with the canister inverted (liquid feed mode)

 I did find the control valve on the Primus Omnifuel's fuel line to be a bit of a pain with the canister inverted.

Inverted canister (liquid feed mode).

So, I just lifted the canister with one hand and adjusted the valve with the other.  An inconvenience, but no big deal.

As for keeping the canister in position, adding a couple of rocks kept the canister inverted, no problem.  I've seen people use small plastic tubs, like the kind that margarine or yogurt come in, to hold a canister inverted.  That might be a bit more convenient, but my stack of rocks did just fine.

By the way, when running on gas, you've got no less power than when running on liquid fuel.  I found that I could quickly bring water to a vigorous roiling boil.

Passing the "tea test".  You've got oodles of power when running on gas.

Well, there you have it, an Optimus Nova stove running on canister gas.  A big thank you to Gary at Bluewater Stove Restoration for making these tests possible.

HJ

Note:  I was approached by Bluewater Stove Restoration and asked if I might like to evaluate the adapter featured in this review.  As a part of the review process, I received an adapter from Bluewater Stove Restoration.  Other than the adapter itself, I received no remuneration for my review.  The receipt of the adapter was not contingent on the nature of my review (in other words I didn't have to promise to do a positive review in return for the adapter).  Further, I receive no part of the proceeds from the sale of any Bluewater Stove Restoration products.  All comments regarding the adapter shown on this page are strictly my own and do not necessarily reflect the views of Bluewater Stove Restoration.

The Clikstand (alcohol) -- A Brief Introduction

I recently featured some tests of the Clikstand with Trangia burner.  For my general thoughts about the Clikstand stove system, I suggest you check out that link.

In this post, I thought I'd show the Clikstand with Trangia burner in a little more detail, and I thought I'd show you my typical day hike configuration.  My overnight hike configuration is the same, only I'd carry more fuel.

First, a pot of about 1000ml in capacity with "traditional" proportions (wide not narrow, short not tall) works well with the Clikstand.   Smaller pots don't fit well with the span of the Clikstand.  I tried a 780ml Snow Peak pot and an 850ml MSR Titan kettle on the Clikstand, and neither was very stable.  See the Clikstand compatibility information at the bottom of this post for more details.The other big advantage of a pot of about 1000ml size is that all of the of the components will nest inside the pot (Clikstand, burner, small fuel bottle, lighter, spoon,windscreen, and fuel measuring cup).

A 1000ml Snow Peak pot containing all the components necessary to operate a Clikstand/Trangia combination.

The same set up as above with the pot lid removed so that you can see the contents.

The Clikstand is quite compact in terms of stowage.  To better appreciate just how complete the set is, let's take a look at all the components spread out.

All of the components of my Clikstand/Trangia set up on display

Now, let's take a little closer look at the central components.  Note the roughly triangluar piece with the circular cut out.  This will form a "deck" and hold the burner.  The burner can be seen just above the upper point of the triangular shaped "deck".

The central components of my Clikstand/Trangia set up.
Top row, L to R:  fuel bottle, Trangia burner, lighter
Middle Row, L to R:  fuel measuring cup, Clikstand "deck", telescoping spoon
Bottom row:  the Clikstand's "walls"

Let's take a closer look at the Clikstand's "walls."  Note the tab on the left side of each piece, the slot on the right side, the "hooks" to the right of the slot, and the projection on the top of each piece.   The slot and tab connect the walls.  The hooks hold the windscreen.  The projection supports the cook pot.

The three identical stamped pieces of stainless steel that form the walls of the Clikstand burner stand/pot support

The Clikstand is first formed from the three identical pieces of stamped stainless steel (there is a titanium version as well; see below).  The tab from one piece is fitted to the slot in the next until all three pieces are connected, forming a triangle.

A fourth piece, the "deck" that you saw in earlier photos (roughly triangular in shape, with a cut out for the burner) is then fitted within the triangle.  The deck "clicks" into place when inserted properly, hence the name "Clikstand."

The three identical pieces form the "walls" and the fourth piece is emplaced as a "deck" within the walls.

The Trangia burner is then placed into the cutout in the center of the deck.  A windscreen is then placed onto the "hooks" that extend from the slotted end of each of the wall pieces.  Note:  The windscreen shown is not a Clikstand windscreen.  The windscreen is a BPL titanium windscreen.  The Clikstand I bought was used and did not include a windscreen, so I included one of my own.

Clikstand with Trangia burner and windscreen in place.

A pot is then of course placed on the assembled burner and stand.

A Clikstand with a 1000ml Snow Peak pot in place.

The regular stainless steel Clikstand with brass Trangia burner isn't the lightest set up out there (see my thoughts on the titanium Clikstand below).  Indeed, many will argue that a small upright gas stove will be as light or lighter, even when you factor in the weight of the steel canister that a gas stove requires.  True, but the Clikstand has a several advantages over a gas stove: 
1.  Windproofness.  Upright gas stoves are typically quite vulnerable to wind.  The Clikstand functions very well in wind (although its fuel consumption will typically go up)
2.  Foolproofness.  The Clikstand has almost nothing to go wrong on it.  There is no delicate thread that you might cross thread.  There are no "O" rings or gaskets to crack or dry out (well except for the one in lid of the Trangia burner, but that gasket does not affect the operation of the stove).  There is no tiny, single jet to clog.  There is no Lindal valve to get stuck open (It happens!  Ask me how I know!).
3.  Fuel availability.  To get a gas canister, you generally have to go to a specialty shop.  Alcohol, at least in the US, is far more available.  Stove appropriate alcohol is available at gas stations, hardware stores, cleaning supply stores, paint stores, and even some grocery stores and pharmacies.  Availability is particularly important when traveling by air and you don't want to burn a day gathering supplies.  Who wants to drive around looking for a specialty store when you could just grab some alcohol from the first hardware store you pass?  For information on what alcohols are appropriate for stove use, see my post on Alcohol as a Stove Fuel.
4. Alternative fuels.  Not only is alcohol fuel widely available, the Clikstand can run on alternative fuels.

• One alternate fuel is hexamine, which is commonly sold under the brand name ESBIT.  Hexamine is  a little smelly and leaves a residue on the bottom of your pot, but it is very light and convenient.  You'd have to rig something up in the cut out of the deck of the Clikstand, but that shouldn't be too hard.
• Another alternate fuel is wood.  Yes, you heard me right, wood.  The Clikstand is either stainless steel or titanium, both of which will withstand heat quite well.  You can pile small sticks and such in the body of the Clikstand and burn them.  You will of course blacken the pot, stand, and windscreen in the process, but there are times where having an alternative fuel source like wood (which is often available where there are no stores or points of resupply!) could come in really handy.  Note:  As of this writing, I have not tried my Clikstand on wood.

5.  Silent operation.  Don't underestimate the value of silence.  I love to be able to hear the natural world that surrounds me when I'm out in the wilderness.  Experience the Zen of an alcohol stove!

COMPARING THE COST AND WEIGHT OF TITANIUM vs. STAINLESS STEEL
(All prices in USD)

	Steel (g)	Ti (g)	Weight Savings (g)	Conversion Factor	Savings (ounces)	Steel Price	Ti Price	Price Difference	Cost per gram saved	Cost per ounce saved
Stand	94	57	37	0.035	1.3	$29.95	$59.95	$30.00	$0.81	$22.99
Screen	37	20	17	0.035	0.6	$14.95	$19.95	$5.00	$0.29	$8.34
Subtotal	131	77	54	0.035	1.9	$44.90	$79.90	$35.00	$0.65	$18.37
Burner	111	34	77	0.035	2.7	$15.95	$45.95	$30.00	$0.39	$11.05
Total	242	111	131	0.035	4.6	$60.85	$125.85	$65.00	$0.50	$14.07

MY THOUGHTS ON THE TITANIUM VERSION OF THE CLIKSTAND
The difference in weight between a Ti Clikstand and windscreen and a stainless steel (SS) Clikstand and windscreen is 54g (about 2oz), for which you will pay an additional $35.00.  $35.00 is a bit much to pay for two ounces in weight savings, although it may be worth it for some.

The argument for going with the titanium version is more compelling if you get everything Ti (stand, screen, and Evernew burner). If you get everything Ti, you would save 131g (4.6 oz) -- which is over a quarter of a pound. But, to do this, you must pay an additional $65.00 over the price of the standard SS and brass components. In other words, the price more than doubles if one gets all Ti components. For $125.85 I can get a very nice petroleum based liquid fuel or gas stove. $125.85 is simply too much for an alcohol stove. One would really have to be an alcohol stove aficionado in order to pay that kind of money.  Note:  One could save some money if one were to by the components as a set.  Still, even as a set, the titanium components cost significantly more than the conventional SS and brass components.

Add to that the fact that there is no lid or simmer ring on the Ti version of the burner, both of which are very nice features of the Trangia burner. Moreover, the Evernew Ti burner is generally less efficient (but faster) than the Trangia burner according to the tests that I've seen.  A less efficient burner means that you will have to carry additional fuel, thus eroding at least some of the weight savings that you just paid so dearly for.

I'd love to try a Ti set up, but for those prices?  I can't quite justify it just yet.

VIDEO COMPARISON TITANIUM vs. STAINLESS STEEL

The following video was made by Hendrik who is from Finland. The video compares a titanium Clikstand set up (including the Evernew titanium burner) with a stainless steel Clikstand set up with a conventional brass Trangia burner.  You can view Hendrik's interesting and informative hiking and lightweight backpacking blog, Hiking In Finland.  The blog is in English and includes a lot more than just information pertaining to Finland.


There you have it, a very brief introduction to the Clikstand.

HJ

Appendix

CLIKSTAND COMPATIBILITY INFORMATION (Copied from Clikstand.com)

Pot Compatibility:
Minimum pot size 4.2” (106 mm) diameter or larger. Maximum recommended pot size 8.0” (203 mm) diameter. For pots, cups or kettles smaller than 4.2” (106 mm) diameter click here (Note this link leaves my blog and goes to the Clikstand site).

Windscreen Compatibility:
Maximum pot size 5.9” (150 mm) diameter.

Burner Compatibility:
Maximum burner diameter 2.75” (70 mm), maximum burner height 2.5” (64 mm).

Pot Size Required for Storage:
Minimum pot size required to store Clikstand, windscreen, and burner inside 5.2” (132mm) diameter, 2.8” (71mm) height.

Related posts and articles:

• Getting Started with Alcohol
• DIY Alcohol Stoves -- Basic Design Considerations
• Cold Weather Tips for Alcohol Stoves
• Is Ethanol Worth It?
  
• Caldera Cone Alcohol Stove Review (on Seattle Backpackers Magazine)
• Caldera Cone Review Supplement -- Additional Photos and Technical Appendix with Weights
• The Clikstand Alcohol Stove System Review
• Caldera Cone vs. Clikstand Alcohol Stove Tests
• Trangia 27 Alcohol Stove System Review
• The Caldera Cone's 12-10 Burner
• The Trangia Alcohol Burner
• What's the Best Alcohol for Stove Fuel?
• What Is Meths?  (And how is that different than Methanol?)
• Going "Green" with Stoves:  Alcohol and Biodiesel

Disclaimer:  I am in no way affiliated with Clikstand.com nor do I have any financial interest in any product displayed on this page.  I am merely a satisfied customer sharing his experience.

Why a Liquid Fueled Stove?

Gas stoves are super convenient.  Why would anyone want to use a liquid fueled stove?  I mean aren't liquid fueled stoves dinosaurs?  Isn't it just weird old-timers who still use them?

Well, hardly.  Petroleum based liquid fueled stoves still rule the day when it's seriously cold.  There are gas stoves that will work in really cold weather (particularly if you do things to warm the canister), but in general 0F/-18C is sort of my dividing line between appropriate use of a winter capable gas stove vs. a liquid fueled stove.  Note that I said "winter capable."  By that I mean a remote canister stove capable of inverted canister operation.  Don't try to take an ordinary upright canister stove down to 0F/-18C!


OK, so extreme cold is when you need a liquid fueled stove, but are there other reasons to go with liquid fuel?  Sure there are.  Here are just a few:

• Motor touring. Liquid fuel is pretty popular with long distance motorcyclists for example. They can just pull a little unleaded out of their motorcycle's tanks and run their stove.
• International travel. Kerosene is the international stove fuel and is generally available world wide.  Gas canisters aren't as widely available, and the canisters available in a given area may not be the canisters your stove uses.  Other liquid fuels like "Av gas" (aviation gasoline) and unleaded automotive gasoline are also available in many areas
• "Sustainability." Canisters take a lot to manufacture and are single use. Even if you recycle them, there's still a much greater impact than buying a liquid fuel bottle that will last a lifetime (or more)
• KISS (keep it simple, sweetheart). If don't want to have "gear proliferation" and want one stove for all four seasons, liquid fuel is the way to go.
• High volume use. Liquid fuel is still the cheapest fuel. For people that use their stoves a lot, it's a good option. A four ounce canister of gas costs about $5.00. The equivalent amount of white gasoline? About $0.30.
• Nostalgia.  Seriously!  I've still got my uncle's 1962 Primus 71 stove.  It's all brass, and it's highly cool.  I'm not going to stop using that or my ultra-cool Svea 123 just because gas is a bit more convenient!  Get real!

No matter what stove you use, remember to enjoy yourself and be safe.

Happy hiking,

HJ